Towel Pull-Over Baby Bib

Pull-over Baby BibIn my “new Mom days” I had been given a pull-over bib that offered the best stain protection and clean-up was easy. I admit, at first I had thought a tie-on bib was more logical to avoid the “drippings” from finding their way into my baby’s hair during removal, but after I learned to roll or fold the bib from the bottom to the neckline to catch the lost morsels before pulling it over the head, I had a change of mind.  And the price can’t be beat! There are oodles of towels to be found at discount stores that come in bundles at a bargain. I found a 5-pack of microfiber hand towels for $3.85 and in a variety of bright colors cheery enough for gift giving, especially when embellished with a cute embroidery design.

Assembly time for each bib is about 5 hours for a medium-advanced skill level, along with the embroidery sewing time, which of course, depends on the stitch count of the design you choose to use. I combined two designs and the total stitch count came to 8959 stitches; 20 minutes sewn at a slow speed. I chose designs that were created with minimal coverage of line stitches at a somewhat short length to keep the embellishment flexible and easy to clean. I used a 40 WT thread, but if the design is not stitch intensive, a thicker 30 WT might even work better on terry cloth or microfiber to allow stitches to be seen through the fabric fibers. Although I used a rayon thread for this particular project, a bib might fair better when laundered in hot water if sewn with a polyester or cotton thread. Also, cotton terry cloth may be a wiser choice if the bib will get tossed in the dryer, because microfiber should be air dried to extend its life.

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Materials:

  • 1 hand/utility towel 16 x 19” (size and fabric type optional)
  • 1 strip of ribbing about 8” long for the collar
  • 1 strip of bias tape about 72” or the length of the bib edge
  • 30-40 WT. thread (colors optional)

Designs:

Rattle Monogram Frame by Adorable Ideas

Cross Stitch Lamb by Logopunch

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1-StepStep 1: Combine designs and test sew. Merge the two designs in your editing software, arrange the lamb inside the frame and save as one design. Test sew the design on sample fabric such as felt. If you are unsure of what colors you will use on the final garment this is the time to experiment. For this sample, I used most of the colors found in the color information that accompanies the design files just to test the results. I also chose to use a silver for the “wool” in place of the white so that stitches would be clearly seen against the white felt.

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2-StepStep 2: Gather your materials and supplies. If you don’t have a sewing or artist’s template, you will also need something to use as a guide for cutting the neck hole in the towel; a small 6” dish or bowl works well for the average baby’s head. You can also measure the circumference of your own child’s head for a tailored fit, and choose an appropriate size dish or other item for a template. I had serged ribbing on hand, but if you don’t, then you will need to fold a 3-3.5” wide strip of ribbing along its 8” length and serge or zigzag stitch the open edge. Note, a serged/zigzag edge isn’t actually necessary because ribbing doesn’t fray, but it does help speed the sewing while pinning and stitching to the neckline.

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3-StepStep 3: Fold one third of the top of the towel to the inside with right sides together, lining up the side edges, and pin to keep the fold in place. Lay the sewn sample in the approximate area where it is planned to be sewn to insure there will be a large enough sewing field. Set your template at the center of the fold, so that one half of the template is on the towel. I used a ruler to determine the half-way mark of the dish I used for a template. Also, be sure to measure from each side of the towel to the edge of the template to be sure the shoulders are of an equal length.

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4-StepStep 4: Mark the edge of the neckline around the plate and cut along the mark. Unfold the towel and pin at four cross-points to use as a guide for pinning the ribbing on evenly.

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5-StepStep 5: With right sides together, stitch a 1/4” narrow seam to attach ribbing to the towel, starting and stopping about 1/2” away from the tails of the ribbing. Match the ends of the ribbing so that the outside folds meet evenly and serge or zigzag once or twice to close the ends and trim away excess ribbing. Stitch to finish the seam between towel and ribbing.

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6-Step

Step 6: Choose the colors to use for the embroidery by laying them together on the towel. Do this in a well-lighted area to determine whether a particular shade will work well.

 

 

 

 

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7-Step

Step 7: Determine the center of the embroidery by folding the towel first along its length, measure to find the half-way mark and pin, and then fold along its width, find the half-way mark and pin. The center is at where the pins cross.

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8-StepStep 8: Hoop the bib with a poly mesh cut-away on the back and a water soluble topping. Rip away a bit of the solvy to expose the needle tops which will make quick removal easier. My bib is too short to be completely hooped in the 6.2 x 10.2” hoop, leaving about 1” of the bib un-hooped at the bottom, so I’ve made sure that the sheets of stabilizers are large enough to be completely hooped to help keep the bib taught and I pinned the edge of the towel to the stabilizer to help keep it in place (not seen in this image). Place the hoop in the machine and move the hoop until the needle is sitting over the point where the needles cross. After sewing begins, stop the machine, remove the pins, and proceed with sewing. If the design you choose begins sewing at the center point, remove the pins before sewing begins.

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9-StepStep 9: After sewing, remove from hoop. Cut away the backing up to the outside stitches, leaving about a 1/4” allowance. There’s no need to remove the backing at the inside of the design if you use a flexible poly-mesh. On the front, rip away all of the excess topping. To remove from small elements, use the tip of sewing scissors or a seam ripper to get it started and pick away the excess. Note, you can also wash away the excess, but drying the bib would increase time before finishing. Keep in mind any remaining topping will disappear the first time the bib is laundered.

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10-StepStep 10: Cut a strip of bias tape at a length that will cover the edges of the bib to leave an approximate 2-3” overlap. I used a 16 x 19” towel that required almost 6 feet of bias tape. I also used bias tape that is 1.5” wide which made it difficult to attach to the bib after folding over the thick microfiber, so I recommend using bias tape that is at least 2” wide or wider.

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11-StepStep 11: Trim the edges where necessary. More often than not towels will have irregular edges, if only slight, but enough to cause an uneven edge. To be sure edges come out evenly, examine and trim by using a ruler for a guide and cut with rotary cutter or mark and cut with scissors. Cut away the corners to enable pinning the bias tape easily and to create a rounded corner.

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12-StepStep 12: If you’re not lucky enough to have a bias tape helper or bias-binder foot (as I don’t) you will have to do as early seamstresses did. Fold the sides of the bias tape to almost meet at the inside center, leaving a small gap to allow for the thickness of the towel and press. Pin the bias tape over the edge of the bib, beginning and stopping at the center back of the bib. Stitch near to the folded edge of the bias tape slowly, making sure that you catch the tape on the underside. (The wider the bias tape, the easier that process is.) Overlap the end of the bias tape and tuck the end to the inside. Pin and stitch the seam to close.

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lastStep 13: The bib is now completed and can be laundered to remove any excess water soluble topping.

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If you’re a beginner at sewing, don’t fear giving this project a try. I hadn’t used my machine for anything but mending and embroidery for a couple of decades. I found it to be the perfect project that will either help you recall what you once knew or give you practice for those projects ahead, while at the same time, result in something quite functional and cute enough for that next baby shower!

~Till next time, keep on stitchin’!

Bonnie
CSR EmbroideryDesigns.com
Digitizer Moonlight Design Embroidery Digitizing

Images © 2013 EmbroideryDesigns.com – B. Landsberger

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What Makes a Design FSL?

bookmark2Freestanding lace, known as “FSL”, is a design that is embroidered on water soluble stabilizer, and when completed the stabilizer is washed away leaving the stitches free standing, as if they had been tatted or crocheted.  There are many designs, such as this bookmark, that have been specifically digitized for FSL by skilled digitizers and available at EmbroideryDesigns.com.

There are also designs that look like they could be used for FSL, so beware!  If they are not specifically digitized for FSL, they usually result in a frazzled mess.  How can you be sure?  Well, if FSL is not listed in the design title, believe it is not for FSL! Then again, there will always be those very occasional designs that might work okay for FSL, if only because they were by chance digitized correctly.  When a customer recently asked if one of our Free Designs, Sweetest Heart ATG01-ATG-Val-01, could be used as FSL, I couldn’t resist testing the design.

Sweetest Heart by Ann the Gran – EmbroideryDesigns.com

The page does not describe the design as FSL, and being a digitizer, I could see it would likely not hold up well, unless it sewed the foundation grid in a proper path.  I could have run it through a slow redraw on my software to confirm my suspicions, but I decided to stitch it out to experiment and find just what could be done with this pretty little heart design that has received 5-star reviews. 

First, I chose the water soluble stabilizer from what I have in stock;  a choice between a light-weight or heavy-weight stabilizer.  I started with the lighter weight, using several layers, which is often sufficient for an appropriately digitized FSL design, but I stopped the sewing when I could see that the sewing path was not building a foundation to accommodate FSL. My curiosity led me to try again.  I switched to one sheet of the heavy weight stabilizer and completed the design. 1-2

Fresh out of the hoop, the design appeared okay, but a closer look revealed the areas near junctions that were beginning to pull away.

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I dared to continue with the usual procedure by cutting away the excess stabilizer and then I let it soak for a minute in a dish of lukewarm water.  I was surprised to see how well it was holding up, until I began rinsing the design under the tap.  The stitches began to fall apart from just the water pressure. Final results: not so pretty.

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Now, you might think I would give up at this point, but I just had to try it for FSL one more time using three layers of the heavy-weight stabilizer, wondering if I don’t rinse all of the stabilizer away, whether the design might stay “glued” together enough to be used for something that won’t get handled often, such as a holiday ornament.  The test once again proved negative, and even without much rinsing there was unraveling occurring at various junctions.  But, being that I am one who hates to toss anything, I did manage to salvage what I could by hand stitching the vulnerable gaps together at the junctions and polished it off with a bead and a bit of ribbon. It’s now suitable for perhaps the back of the Christmas tree.step7

Then I decided to try the design as recommended by one of the reviewers who stitched it on organza to create a window dreamcatcher.   I used organza (non-silk) with two sheets of heavy-weight water-soluble stabilizer, though I believe now that one sheet may have sufficed.  The excess stabilizer was cut away without cutting the fabric and not a stitch unraveled under the tap.

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The results of the organza lace were quite pleasing and it now awaits my construction of the dreamcatcher – a project that I promise to finish and share another day.organza

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So, what design can you use to create freestanding lace?

An FSL design must be digitized with a foundation of non-stop lines that build a strong grid in order to avoid the fiasco of unraveling when the stabilizer is rinsed away.  When a design is created specifically for FSL the product pages at EmbroideryDesigns.com will include “FSL” in the title, such as the bookmark design: FSL Butterfly Bookmark D by Pat Williams.PW-D

The steps to create a finished bookmark with this FSL design are few and the design sews beautifully!  Time to create the bookmark actually depends on how creative you wish to be. My project took only a few hours because the design is skillfully digitized specifically for FSL, and it sewed beautiful!  I used one sheet of Badgemaster water soluble stabilizer, simply because it’s what I have in stock.  Howeverthis brand is not always available or easy to find.  The digitizer, Pat Williams, recommends, I find the freestanding lace works so much better when sewn on two layers of a water soluble backing, such as Floriani’s Wet N’ Gone, OESD Aqua-Mesh or Sulky Fabri-Solvy.”

Following are the steps I used and you can also find instructions for this bookmark at EmbroideryDesigns.com.

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Materials:

  • 2 sheets Sturdy heavy-weight water soluble stabilizer
  • 40 WT thread – your choice of color
  • About 30 seed beads (or other decorative beads or gems)
  • 1 pearl-like bead about 3 MM
  • 10-12 inch strand of ribbon 1/4″ or 1/8″ wide

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step1

Step 1: Hoop stabilizer and sew.

Step 1: Hoop the two sheets of sturdy heavy weight stabilizer in a hoop of at least 5″ x 7″. The stabilizer must be hooped taut and you must use a heavy weight stabilizer for the best results. Sew the design.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Step 2: Remove stabilizer.

Step 2: Remove stabilizer and let dry.

Step 2: Remove from the hoop. Cut away excess stabilizer from around the outside of the stitching and place in a dish of lukewarm tap water for a few minutes. Rinse under tap water. Block (adjust and shape stitches) on a paper towel and cover with another paper towel. To avoid the design from curling and losing its shape, rest something heavy like a cold iron on top and dry overnight.

 

 

 

 

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Step 3: Decorate!

Step 3: Decorate!

Step 3: Decorate by sewing the beads where you desire with the same color thread as the bookmark. Use the small pearl-like bead for the head of the butterfly. Tuck the ribbon through the top hole at center of design, pulling through about halfway. Lace each end of the ribbon in and out, through the middle and bottom holes, with both ribbon ends tucked through to the back of the bottom hole of the design (as seen in image). Tack ribbon in place with a couple stitches at the back and bottom of bookmark.

 

 

 

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So there you have the bad and the good of FSL.  Use the right design and the right materials, and you’ll create a precious treasure.  We have many FSL designs to choose from that will help you create bookmarks, decorative trims, holiday ornaments and so much more!  Come browse our collection of FSL Designs at EmbroideryDesigns.com and find your next project!

Remember, your comments or suggestions are always welcome.  If you have tried this project, I’d like to hear what you have done!  You’re invited to comment here or please share your ideas in a review on the design project page.  Till next time, keep on stitchin’!

Bonnie
CSR EmbroideryDesigns.com
Digitizer Moonlight Design Embroidery Digitizing

Images © 2013 EmbroideryDesigns.com – B. Landsberger

 

Memorial Day Centerpiece

finalLooking for a way to perk up your Memorial Day celebration? This project is perfect for a colorful centerpiece at your BBQ party that will make your guests smile! As I was making this, I also considered placing one of the skewered shapes in a memorial bouquet, or even using just the shapes to dress up the fridge by fastening a magnet on the back.

You can use the suggested designs or some of your own favorites.  Or you can choose from the patriotic designs now a part of the Memorial Day Sale at EmbroideryDesigns.com!  The project can be completed in a 3.93 x 3.93″ sewing field and by all skill levels, if you have the available materials and time.  It will take about 8 hours, depending on how many skewered shapes you decide to make, as well as the sewing time necessary for the designs you choose to use.  Keep in mind that the materials used are my suggestions and measurements in this project are close, but approximate.  You should choose your patriotic designs, gather up your choice of materials, and make adjustments to your own needs and imagination!

Materials

  • Star Shape back and front:  2  9 x 9” panels of red medium-light wt. fabric
  • Round Shapes fronts:  2  8 x 8” panels of patterned medium-light wt.  fabric
  • Round Shapes backs:  2  felt pieces 4 ½” square
  • 40 WT embroidery thread
  • 1.50 OZ tear-away or cut-away stabilizer enough for 3 sew-outs
  • Print out of a star shape
  • Cardboard – a used shipping box works well
  • 15” gold decorator trim
  • 2 prepared trim 22” each, gingham fabric serged w/eyelet trim
  • 12” ribbon 2 MM wide
  • 6 small star stickers (stationary and gift wrap supplies)
  • Fabric Glue
  • Scotch ® tape
  • Needle and thread
  • Skewers – metal or wood: 1   17” and 2   11”.
  • Wide mouth vase 9-10” tall
  • Red, white and blue ribbon or decorating garland (stationary and gift wrap supplies)
  • 2 decorative USA flags

Designs:

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Instructions (click on images for a closer view; use back button to return):

Step1 Memorial Day 2013

Step 1: Set up designs in software.

Step 1: Merge designs for the star shape. Open the Flag Ribbon design GSD01-ICG350 in editing software. Select the entire design and copy. Open a new window. Paste the ribbon into a new window. Open the USA Heart 1 design SME01-US-189, select, copy, and paste it to the left of the ribbon in the new window. Then paste again to the right of the ribbon. Use a guideline to help line up the two USA Heart 1 designs evenly. Check size and decrease if necessary to fit within a 3.93 x 3.93” area, so it will fill the available space inside the star shape. Save the new window as one design in your machine format. For the round shapes, open the two designs, Red, White and Blue Flower DC01-HY0844 and American Star FES01-EMP200804003, in your software; adjust the colors, if necessary, and save in your machine format.

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Step2 Mem Day 2013

Step 2: Gather materials and sew.

Step 2: Gather materials and sew the three designs. Stabilize each design with two layers of 1.5 OZ tear-away or one sheet of cut-away cut to the same size as the fabric pieces being sewn to form a sturdy back. Remove the embroidery from the hoop. Do not remove the stabilizer.

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Step3 Mem Day 2013

Step 3: Create cardboard insert.

Step 3: Create a template for the star shape. Print an 8” star shape and cut out the star center using a craft knife. Use the template to mark and cut-out a star from the cardboard for the insert.

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Step4 Mem Day 2013

Step 4: Create the star shape.

Step 4: Assemble the star shape. With the stabilized back facing up, center the finished design inside the printed template and mark the star’s edge. Cut only the stabilizer away along the marked line, leaving the stabilizer intact in the center of the star. Then mark a cut-line about ½” away from the star’s edge on the fabric and cut away the outside excess. Make a small cut on the fabric at each inside corner of the star from the outside edge up to the stabilizer to allow folding back the fabric edge to lay flat. Glue the fabric edge to the stabilizer and clamp with paper clips or binder clips until dry. For the back of the star, use the cardboard star insert as a guide to mark the remaining 9 x 9” piece of red fabric. Then, mark about ½” away from the mark of the star outline. Cut the inside corners up to the star outline. Wrap the margin of fabric over the cardboard edge and secure with tape.

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Step 5: Attach trim.

Step 5: Attach the gold trim to the front of the star. Measure and cut a piece of trim for each side, leaving a ¼” tail past the point. Secure to the edge of the star with fabric glue, overlapping the ends of trim at the corners neatly; clamp with binder clips and let dry. Where the trim meets at each point, cut the excess of one piece of trim to end exactly at the point; overlap the longer piece over the shorter piece and wrap over the point edge to the back; glue to the back; clamp with binder clips and let dry.

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Step 6: Attach front of star to back.

Step 6: Finish the star shape. Secure the front to the back with a thin line of glue at the edge; clamp with binder clips and let dry. Be sure to leave an opening at the inside corner between the two bottom points to allow for the skewer. Push the 17” skewer through the opening between the back fabric and cardboard.

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Step 7: Add ribbon to American Star design.

Step 7: Begin the round shapes. Fasten the 2 MM wide white ribbon to outside edge of the embroidered American Star with a couple small stitches using the needle and thread. Stitch at the points and corners, folding the ribbon over after stitching so that it continues around the embroidered star neatly. It is not necessary to tack down the entire length of ribbon.

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Step 8: Prepare round front.

Step 8: Cut out 4” round cardboard inserts. Use a 4” see-thru protractor to mark a cut-line around the design on the stabilizer, centering the design by measuring between each point and the circle about ¾” or (20 MM). Cut only the stabilizer along the marked cut-line.

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Step 9: Attach front to insert.

Step 9:  Measure and mark a circle on the fabric about ½” away from the stabilizer edge and cut. Wrap the fabric back in gradual folds over the edge of the cardboard insert, spacing the folds about every ¾” so that the fabric lays smoothly along the edge; secure with tape.

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Step 10: Stitch on trim.

Step 10: Attach the prepared gingham and eyelet trim. Lay the strip around the edge, making folds about every ½ – 1” so that the trim lays flat and pin to hold in place. With needle and thread blind stitch between the fabric and the eyelet trim around the edge. On the back, tack down with a couple of small stitches at each fold.

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Step 10: Attach felt to back.

Step 11: Mark and cut 4” circles from the felt. Glue around the outside edge, leaving an opening for the skewer at the bottom and secure to the trim on the backs of the round shapes; let dry.

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Step 12: Finish and arrange in vase.

Step 12: Decorate the Red, White & Blue Flower design with the star stickers. Push the 11” skewers into each of the finished round shapes. If necessary, secure the finished shapes to the skewer with a small piece of tape. Fill the vase with marbles, sand or colorful fabric (red felt used in image).  Arrange in the vase with the decorative USA flags, ribbon and/or garland.

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I hope this project will help you celebrate the day as we remember with appreciation those who bravely fought for our freedom.

Till next time, keep on stitchin’!

Bonnie
CSR EmbroideryDesigns.com
Digitizer Moonlight Design Embroidery Digitizing

Fabric Embroidery Greeting Card

Mother's Day CardThe crew at EmbroideryDesigns.com would like to wish our customers a very special Mother’s Day, whether you’re a Mom or you simply love one! To commemorate the day and kick off this blog, I am offering you my latest project.  It takes a little time, so it’s a bit late for 2013, but this 3-fold fabric embroidery card is perfect for any occasion to frame your favorite design and can be accomplished with scraps of trims and fabric found in most any stitch and craft stash.

Materials

  • 1 pre-folded, 8 x 5.5”, 3-panel, med-heavy wt. card stock
  • 1 lace trim, 20” length, 1” wide
  • 1 lace trim, 26” length, 1” wide
  • 1 piece beige sateen fabric, 12” x 8”
  • 1 cut-away stabilizer or 2 tear-away
  • 1 piece pink light cotton fabric, 8.5 x 12”
  • 1 pink ribbon 10 MM wide, 9.5” length
  • 2 pink ribbons 10 MM wide, 13” length
  • 1 pink ribbon 2 MM wide, 16” length
  • Fabric glue
  • Scotch ® tape
  • Hand needle and white thread
  • 40 WT Thread
  • Design AFCA168 Mother’s Day Embroidery Design by Ann the Gran or other design to fit within 4.5” high and 7.75” wide oval.

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Instructions (click on images for a closer view):

Sew Design

Step 1: Sew design.

Step 1: Sew the design. I decreased the size of the design just slightly to fit the 4 x 4” hoop. I used 1 sheet of tear-away with a piece of light cotton yellow fabric for the stabilizer because the sateen-like fabric I had was a little sheer. I used a burgundy instead of the mauve that is recommended in the thread color chart. I also used a dark pink instead of the recommended light red for the shadow of the rose.

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Step 2: Cut out oval.

Step 2: Cut an oval out of the center panel of the card stock about 4.5” high and 7.75” wide.

Optional: make your own card stock from 1 sheet of construction paper 16.5″ x 8.5″.

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Step 3: Trim excess fabric.

Step 3: Trim excess fabric.

Step 3: Measure, mark and trim away the excess fabric from the sew-out. Then, set the sew-out into the panel to check if it will sit properly when done.

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Step 4: Finger press hem.

Step 4: Fold in the first panel and place the open card on top of the pink fabric with equal amounts (about 1″) of fabric on each side. Finger press a hem along each side and iron for a better crease.

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Step 5: Cut oval in cover fabric.

Step 5: Cut oval in cover fabric.

Step 5: Using the open oval as a template, mark an oval on the pink fabric around the edge of the cut-out and another oval to the inside about .25”. Cut along the inside oval and remove inside scrap. Cut triangle notches at the cut edge, stopping just before the inside marked oval, and press the fabric back with iron. Set in card and use small strips of tape to hold down the fabric tabs against the inside of the card.

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Step 6: Place lace trim around oval.

Step 6: Use a bit of glue under the side hems to adhere them to the inside of the card; use small binder clips until glue dries. Press the 20” lace trim along its length in half and place around the edge of the oval covering both the card and the pink fabric; hold in place with paper clips. Clip the outside edge of the lace on the inside of the card to release stress; tape to inside of card, overlapping the lace ends neatly.

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Step 7: Attach center ribbon.

Step 7: Place sample inside the oval and use small strips of scotch tape to secure the opening at each side along the inside center fold. Lay the 9.5” length of 10 MM wide pink ribbon along the inside center fold. Tuck in the ends on each side and secure with Scotch tape.

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Step 8: Seal edges of card to fabric.

Step 8: Press the 2 pink ribbons of 10 MM wide along the length; fold one over each side to cover both the pink fabric and the card, using a little glue to adhere the ribbon and close the sides; use binder clips to clamp until glue dries.

Optional: Use any matching binding you have on hand instead of ribbon.

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Step 9: Place lace trim along edges and hold in place with binder clips.

Step 9: Press the remaining strands of lace trim in half along the length and clamp with binder clips to each side leaving an equal excess at each side.

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Step 10: Attach lace trim to edges.

Step 10: With needle and thread, baste the lace to the outside of the card, concealing the thread below the fabric, and tack with small stitches against the lace about 1″ apart.  Tack to the ends of the ribbon that lays along the center fold. Fold the excess ends of the lace and ribbon that covers the edges to the inside and tack in place.

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Step 10: Write and attach your message.

Step 10: Print or write your message on a separate piece of paper or stationary; cut to fit the card, about 11 x 7.5”, and slip through the ribbon along the fold.

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Step 11: Stitch a bow to the front of the card.

Step 11: Tie a bow in the strand of 2 MM wide pink ribbon and stitch in place at the top of the oval.

Optional: Decorate with beads or gems.

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Step 12: Deliver your card!  Very often a decorated fabric card will not fit inside its envelope, but an inexpensive, gift box found in the gift wrap department, lined with tissue, usually works well.

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This project will soon be found among those in our Projects at EmbroideryDesigns.com.  Watch for more projects to be introduced at this blog, as well as tricks and tips to help you put good use to your collection of machine embroidery designs.  And remember, your questions and comments are always welcome!

Till next time, keep on stitchin’!

Bonnie

CSR EmbroideryDesigns.com

Digitizer Moonlight Design Embroidery Digitizing

Welcome to Stitch and Craft!

If you are like most machine embroidery enthusiasts, you have a growing collection of design files stored away just waiting to come alive in thread.  I will be sharing projects in this blog to help inspire your own works of stitched art using designs found at EmbroideryDesigns.com. …. Enjoy! 🙂